Lugo is the biggest province in Galicia and it has the greatest variety of colours and landscapes. Its 9,980 Km2 extend from the Cantabrian coast to the Sil basin, and from the mountains which border Asturias to the Cordal Gallega, on the slope to the right of the Miqo The 412.000 inhabitants are spread uniformly around the province with an average density of 40 inhabitants per square kilometre. Apart from the high density in the city, the coastal area shows a slight increase in the average density, whilst in the mountains of Ancares and O Courel there are many deserted zones.
Because of the irregular and varied landscape the climate and the way of life cannot be generalized for the whole province; there are certain differences from region to region.
There is almost 100 kilometres of coastline, washed by the Cantabrian Sea, from the estuary of Ribadeo or O Barqueiro, with an uninterrupted sequence of easily accessible beaches. The climate of this littoral is known for its softness, with mild winters, practically ice-free, and very moderate summers, with temperatures between 20 and 22 degrees. Among the characteristics of the Cantabrian-type climate is the predominance of sunny days during the year and the water temperature, which is a few degree higher than that of the Atlantic.
A Terra
Cha is a Vast plain -the concept "plain" is rather relative in Galicia - and
extends northwards from the capital, between the N-VI main Madrid-Coruqa road and the
N-634 Ribadeo-Baamonde road. The area is characterized by its farmlands. The severity of
the climate and the hard work to be done on the land give this district a different
personality From the Galician norm.
Every
traveler who enters Galicia by way of Piedrafita passes through two of the principal
Galician mountain ranges, Os Ancares and O Courel. Os Ancares is formed by the final
stretch of the Cantabrian range toward the Lugo meseta. The Vegetation in this region is
outstanding. Oaks, birches, chestnut trees, hazelnut trees, and alder trees abound. As far
as shrubs are concerned, holly and Piorno, which 
gave its name to the remotest village of the
sierra, are the most impressive. In these villages traditional preromanic Pallozas, are
conserved and were lived in until very recently.
O Courel is a continuation of the Cantabrian mountain range towards the southeast and it is a really beautiful natural park, which enjoys special protection. The vegetation is exuberant in some areas, like in the meadows of Rogueira, and in other areas only bushgrowth is found, as on the Piapaxaro peak, a name taken from a Roman eagle which was found on the slopes. The range is rich in minerals and has been exploited since Roman times.
The last natural district of the province of Lugo takes form on both sides of the river Miqo, from Terra Cha as far as the meeting point with the river Sil in Os Peares. On the left bank, where agriculture is predominant, life is centered around the historic villages of Sarria, through which the Camino de Santiago crosses, and Monforte de Lemos, head of one of the most powerful counties in the middle Ages. Towards the south, on the banks of the Sil, vineyards occupy most of the arable land, and the wines from here, Sober and Amandi are rightly famous. The western bank is very similar The Camino de Santiago dominates life in Portomarin, which was saved from the waters of the Belesar dam. Monterroso and Palas de Rei are close to the Atlantic. The river Ulla, the second biggest river in Galicia, begins here its voyage to the Arousa estuary. On the other hand the Asma, which rises in the Faro range, the western border of the province, shapes the exceptionally fertile valley of Chantada, emerges into the Miqo and flows by the vineyards which produce that soft and tasty red wine.
Gastronomy
in Lugo is based on two fundamental ingredients: meat and fish. Lugo offers a great
variety
of both
and the quality is excellent. Lugo is the first province of Spain for bovine production,
and the second for pork. Veal and pork are found in most dishes. The Cantabrian ports send
every type of fish and seafood to the capital and to the rest of the province.
The people in Lugo boast about their skill in the slaughtering of pigs, and throughout the province various pork parts are specialities: Lacones in Sarria, Chorizos in Becerrea or Meira and also ham in the mountain areas, and thus we have the Caldo Gallego and Lacsn con grelos, which although famous throughout Galicia, acquire a special flavour in Lugo. The same applies to the Empanada (pie), which can be made of anything, such as fish-like the Reo of Viveiro, or such as meat-like the Lomo (back) of Mondoqedo, or the exquisite and rare Papukas of Monforte de Lemos.
We must not forget the river fish. Salmon and trout from the rivers in the north of Lugo are still very famous and preferred by fishermen. As well, in Lugo, Galicia and throughout Spain, Capones from Vilalba are savored at Christmas, Also from Vilalba is San Simon cheese, which along with those of Terra Cha, Cebreiro and Ulloa complete a very good meal.
We should not leave Lugo without trying its cheeses, the most typical of which originate here; Tetilla of Melide or from Palas, and as we said before San Simon of Vilalba, and browned patiently over the smoke of the birch; the round Cheeses of Meira and Cebreiro and the strong aromatically flavored cheeses of O Courel.
As far as desserts and cakes are concerned, although those of Mondoqedo and Guitiriz are famous, you can ask in any other village for their speciality and they'll offer nice cakes, Roscones, sponges and exquisite pies. And of course, let's not forget the pancakes with pig blood, which are typical of Lugo.
The different types of wines should be sampled in the places where they are made, like Chantada, Monforte, Quiroga, Pantsn, and Sober, although Amandi, which is produced on the barles of the Sil and is very well advertised, can be basted any where in the province. The vineyards of Portomarin also produce a delicious "aguardiente".
Of the four Galician provinces, Lugo has the fewest pilgrimages, as far as sanctuaries are concerned. And it's not that the people from Lugo are less festive, it's just that "non lle cadrou", the saints and their predecessors didn't come to Lugo in such great numbers as to the other provinces.
By way of compensation, Lugo can boast the famous festival and fair of San Froilan in the autumn, where octopus and the best partridge can be savored. Not to mention the Corpus Christi procession in Lugo, alhc aegan more than seven centuries ago and with the permanent display of the Saint, or of the "Virgin de los Ojos Grandes". There are also other important festivals, like that of Naseiro in Viveiro; As San Lucas and Os Remedios in Mondoqedo: O Conde Santo in Vilanova de Lourenza; San Roman de Vilalba; San Bartolo, in San Cosme de Barreiros; San Lourenzo in Foz or San Juan in Sarria and Santa Maria, the advocation of the Virgin in almost all towns and villages of the province; and the Obispo Santo, the impressive Don Gonzalo, bishop of Mondoqedo, the one whose sole presence made the Norman ships who were coming in by Marzan retreat.
We munstrir forget to mention the great Galician pilgrimages to Nosa Seqora do Faro, in Requeixo, whose sanctuary, built on the summit, guides and protects the province of Lugo. And there are those who say that the battle of the end of the world will take place on mount Faro, where women and children will fight, as there will be no men left. They will use the arms that the Moors left buried in the mountain when they lived there.
In Viveiro you should also see the so-called Cueva de la Doncella which is next to the sea and through which you can see -according to the legend- a beautiful woman sitting down, combing her hair, which of course which anares the sailors who fish in these waters.
And also many years ago they discovered (or should we say she appeared) the Nosa Seqora da Aparecida de Vilaselan in Ribadeo.
The
etymology of Lugo is from the celtic word "Lug", a sacred wood, and later
latinized by the Romans
to Lucus Augusti. From the times of the Roman
emperor Augusti it was the capital of the North of Galicia, whilst Braga was the capital
of the South. From this period remain the hot springs, the mosaics in Batitales street and
above all the walls "which form a complete circle aroma ardent city
it could be said say that Lugo is the most ancient capital of Galicia, and also during the Suevian monarchy of the 5th and 6th centuries it was the headquarters of those famous Counsels where the administrative organization which was to rule Galicia for centuries was forged.
Because of its
situation between the two poles, the of Galaic, centred in Santiago and the Astur-Leonese,
Lugo was a territory win many upheavals during the Middle Ages. After the fleeting
occupation of the city by Muza in the 8th century, it was the scene of many a battle
between the kings of Asturias and the Muslims and then again later the rebellions of the
counts of Galicia against the monarchy or against the church. On the other hand the
replantation of the territory, the creation of the great monasteries and, above all, the
influence of the Camino de Santiago, which crosses the very centre of the province,
all contributed to a period of prosperity which was enjoyed at the end of the Middle Ages,
with a tendency towards decentralization when the great villages of the north began to
appear, for example, Viveiro, Ribadeo and the Episcopal see of Mondoqedo, and to the
south the village of the counts, Monforte de Lemos.
At the end of the 15th century, the politics of the Old Kingdom of Galicia begin to be governed from Castilla; in this way Lugo and Santiago and some other villages lost their historical importance. The first provincial division of the province in the Middle Ages divided Lugo in two: Lugo and south of the capital, and Mondoqedo which took in the present day Marina and Terra Cha, until the final division in 1834.
During the past two centuries Lugo has become to be the centre of many cultural and Galician nationalistic movements. There has been a great amount of emigration, although the excellent agricultural condition of the land together with new techniques could make it the genuine pantry of Europe.
Where Terra Cha ends you find the city of Lugo, hidden in the basin of the river Miho.
Its geographical position is and has been privileged, taking into consideration its strategicalls high position, and of course the river Miho at its feet also helps.
The urban nucleus is surrounded by a wall of almost two kilometres, built in the second century by the imperial Romans. You should not leave Lugo without taking a walk along the wall. Through its ten gates you can make your way into they city, and from two squares, the Mayor and Santo Domingo all the streets begin, and these two squares are linked by the famous Reina street which was inaugurated by Isabel II in 1854. Outside the walls are the new buildings, which form the suburbs of the city.
One of the most interesting gates in the wall is that of Santiago; it opens on to the Romanic-Gothic cathedral of Santa Maria, reconstructed centuries ago by Bishop Odoario The structure is mainly Romanic but there are many later additions, like the chapel of Pilar in the 14th and 15th century; the main facade is neoclassical and the cloister from the 18th century.
Other churches worth a visit are Santo Domingo, begun in the second half of the 13'th century, which is now the convent-church of the Augustinians; Santa Maria a Nova and San Juan de Dios, both of which are baroque, and the church of San Francisco of the 13th century and situated in Soledad square, aheve you also see the provincial Museum, where the visitor can see various archeological items, medieval art and popular Galicia art.
In Santa Maria square the Archbishop's palace is also situated along with the cathedral. It was built in the 18th century and from there you can walk back again to the wall, a fortress which has played an important part in the history of Lugo, it beat off the attacks of the suevians, Muslims and Norman pirates, but not the Napoleonic troops which captured it under Soul and Ney; finally it resisted the the attacks of the Carlist troops of Vilaverde.
There are beautiful streets in the city, like that of Compostela with its beautiful arches; Reina street which together with the Plaza Mayor, where we find the Town Hall, the Cmrculo de las Artes and the old Casino, is a popular centre of provincial life and entertainment.
The Plaza del Campo is exquisite -a forum of the Romans- with its beautiful fountain and archways and also worth seeing are the little streets of San Pedro and Nueva, which are old commercial centres. You should also visit Cruz street to have a drink in its very popular little bars.
Not very far from the city there is an archeological monument of great interest: the preromanic temple of Santa Eulalia of Boveda, whose vault is decorated with magnificent paintings. Also on the banks of the Miho is the Roman hot-baths, where the brick vaults are still in place.
MONDOQEDO
The city of Mondoqedo is, after Lugo, the most important monumental centre in the province, having been the capital of the province for four centuries and also Episcopal see, which it now shares with Ferrol. It is situated in a precious valley and the old city is preserved, With various baroque buildings and typical structures around the cathedral. The oldest parts of the cathedral are Romanic, belonging to the 7th century and the gothic gateway is also from the 17th century. The flamboyant Gothic Choir and the "herreriano" cloister are 15th and 16th centuries.
VIVEIRO
Viveiro is another
tourist city which boasts beautiful beaches and monuments, you can visit the Romanic
church of Santa Maria, San Francisco with its pointed arches and the Puerta Mayor of the 1
6th century. There are also two other ancient gateways and the remains of medieval walls.
MONFORTE
Monforte grew up in the shade of the castle of the Castro and the house of the Lemos. The lofty tower of homage is still preserved, since the 14th century, and the remains of the old enclosure which surround the Pino convent belong to the 16th century. The Colegio de la Compaqma, called the Escorial Gallego for its grandeur, was built in the 16th century in the "herreriano" style.
RIBADEO
Situated
at the end of the estuary of the same name, it is the centre of the fertille valley of Eo.
The old cathedral, today called the church of Santa Maria del Campo stands out; it was
built in the 18th century as well, and the Clarisa monastery is also worth a
visit. There are also remains of walls and the castle of San Damian. On the Santa Cruz
hilltop
stands
the monument to the Gaitero (Piper).
FOZ
Foz is an important fishing town which is always crowded in the summer due to its popular beaches, like A Rapadoira and Llas. It was the archbishop 's see until it was changed to Mondoqedo in the 12th . century. Closely is the Byzantine church of San Martin of Mondoqedo.
VILALBA
Vilalba is the capital of Terra Cha and was very powerful in the Middle ages; as it was the headquarters of the powerful. Andrade family, whose fortress is still standing and today is a tourism parador. Also worth a visit is the parochial church with its twin towers. Today is an important commercial town and if you visit it don't forget to try its cheeses.
The coast of Lugo, known populary as A Mariqa, is one of the most beautiful and least known in Spain. You can approach by way of the Vilalba-Viveiro road (96 Km). If you choose the second way you could visit in Meira the beautiful Romanic church of the Cistercians, Santa Maria. It was built in the 7th century and the romaine of the monastery in the 16th. You can also visit in Pedregal de Irima the source of the Miqo.
In
Ribadeo you can admire the first of the estuaries from the promenade or from mount of Sta.
Cruz, where the monument to the Gaitero (piper) is situated.
The old streets which go down to the Porcillan quays, can boast their lovely little corners and houses. The first part of our trip begins by leaving the main road and approaching the coast road by way of the roadways to the beaches. From the picturesque port of Rinlo to the Espiqeira bridge, over the river Masma, the beaches of Os Castros will appear one after the other: Os Castros, A Devesa, Reinante, Benquerencia and the great sand plains of Altar and San Bartolo.
One of
the best resorts is Foz, situated as the mouth of the Masma and in front of the lovely
Rapadoira
beach. From Foz you should make a lisle detour (3 Km.) to San Martiqo de
Mondoqedo. The church, formerly Episcopal, is of primitive Romanic style (6th and 7th
century) and here the best Romanic retable is conserved.
Further on from Foz on there is another series of quiet beaches at Fazouro, where you can see another celtic Citania very well preserved next to the sea. Then you can go along by the beaches of Arealonga and Areoura, and from there you get to Burela, one of the best ports on the Cantabrian. A little beyond, a stone's throw from Cervo, are the modernized installations of the famous pottery works of Sargadelos. In order to see the picturesque port and beaches of San Ciprian you have to take a slight detour towards the coast. You also have to take a detour in Xove if you want to see the beaches of the Moras peninsula, where the coast reaches towards the east to open out again at the Viveiro estuary.
The
first splendid beach we get to before Viveiro is Area; then the important fishing port of
Celeiro, but all the great panorama of the Landro estuary is worth observing from the
viewing point on San Roque mountain, over the town of Viveiro.
On the other side of the estuary the residential zone spreads out towards the beaches of Covas, with its peculiar rocks called Os Castelos. The last stage of the trip is Vicedo, in the beautiful estuary of O Barqueiro which is shared between the provinces of Lugo and A Coruqa. The landscapes around Vicedo, both on the coast and island, on the banks of the Sor, are for most people the most beautiful in Spain. It makes a good ending for our trip through As Mariqas. We say goodbye to the Lugo coast from the spacious and safe Arealonga beach.
If we return to Lugo we can do so via Viveiro and Vilalba, and here one should stop to admire the fine eight-sided tower of the Andrades from the 14th century.
The journey of the Camino de Santiago through the province of Lugo (110 Km) is the most important within Galician territory. Having passed Pedrafita, it leaves the N-VI on its way to Sarria. The journey is along a mountain road which reaches its highest point in Cebreiro, a village of typical preromanic Pallozas around the ancient sanctuary of the same name and the pilgrim hospital founded in the 9th century. Inside the sanctuary the Holy Grail a 12th century chalice enveloped in mystery and legends is displayed.
After a
prolonged descent from the mountain pass of Polo (1.337 m.), with a magnificent viewing
point over the Courel mountains, and through Hospital and Triacastela, you get to Samos.
The monastery was
fonded
in 6th century, but today only a Roman door and a majestic baroque church are preserved,
the facade of which dates from the 1 8th century. It has two beautiful cloisters. In the
old one the magnificent baroque fountain of Noreidas can be seen. And very near to the
monastery is the preromanic chapel of Cipres, built in the 9th century.
Between Sarria and the outskirts there are more than a dozen Romanic temples. In the village, besides the Roman churches of Vilar de Sarria and O Salvador, the tower of the fort still stands since the 15th century, and also some of the old pilgrim hospitals, of which that of the convent of La Magdalena of the 1 6th and 18th centuries is specially noterworthy.
The river Miho passes alongside Portomarin. From the old medieval bridge just one arch has been salvaged, and the main monuments were transferred stone by stone to a nearby hill when the Relsar dam was made. The church of San Juan is the most spectacular and perfect of Romanic churches of the Camino de Santiago.
On
reaching ventas de Narsn, the road goes off through the ligonde mountain range, between
the Lugo to Pontevedra and Lugo to Santiago roads, until it meets up again with the latter
on the border of the province of Coruqa. One of the most important places of this stage
is the village Vilar de Donas. Its interesting Romanic temple gives refuge to a
magnificent set of medieval sepulchres. Although slightly off the Camino, you can
also see in Monterroso old Pazos, Romanic churches and medieval towers. Palas de 
Rei is the end of the Camino
in Lugo. Almost all its churches are Romanic, and not very far from the village is the
castle of Pambre, built in the 14th century and one of the most spectacular and best
preserved in Galicia.
